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entertainment

How ‘It’s a Sin’ Finds Joy Amid a Harrowing Period of British History

Published on Thrillist on March 8, 2021

The mastery of Channel 4’s It’s a Sin, which follows a group of friends navigating the early AIDS epidemic in 1980s London, is in its understanding that even the darkest periods in history are imbued with ambition and joy. That’s not to say that Russell T. Davies’ (Queer as Folk, Years and Years) newest drama series, now available to US audiences on HBO Max, diminishes the inescapable grief that plagued entire generations of queer people, but rather that in order to comprehend the full weight of the AIDS crisis, viewers would need to be privy to the thrilling moments that made life so precious.

In the show’s opening scenes, we’re introduced to three gay teens who each flee the nest to make a life for themselves in London. There, they find one another and soon move into a communal flat they dub the “Pink Palace,” which becomes something of a queer community hub where all are welcome. Over the course of five episodes and 10 years, residents of the Pink Palace find it increasingly difficult to ignore the fast-spreading virus that’s crept into their inner circle, oscillating between pop-filled nights to remember and abrupt visits to the hospital to hug another friend goodbye.

While every gay character on It’s a Sin finds something to live for in a decade when gay men’s lives were particularly fragile, it’s Roscoe Babatunde, played by television newcomer Omari Douglas, who most adamantly refuses to let the threat of HIV keep him from living the fearless and fabulous life he planned.

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“If you need to forward any mail, I’ll be staying at 23 Piss Off Avenue, London W-Fuck.” | CHANNEL 4

Roscoe’s story begins under the reign of his conservative Nigerian parents, who vehemently condemn his homosexuality and make plans to send him away to “heal.” With some seed money from his sister and not much of a choice, Roscoe packs a bag, says he’s leaving, and stamps off in the rain to the tune of “Feels Like I’m in Love” by Kelly Marie. The pivotal moment sets the stage for Roscoe’s no-fucks-given attitude that empowers him to push through the difficult years to come.

“He’s fiercely proud and fiercely out, and has the confidence and bravery to express that in this really bold and innovative way,” says Douglas over a Zoom call, noting that Roscoe’s character arc isn’t about finding himself—he already knows exactly who he is—but rather one of finding a balance between being himself and fulfilling his duties as a friend, brother, and son.

Toward the end of Episode 1, Roscoe lays his full personality on the table when he unapologetically arrives late to a job interview at the local queer bar, where he’s asked what he wants to do when he’s older. “You wait,” he replies. “Give me five, six years, I’ll be stinkin’ rich. Every single teacher I’ve had, I want to drive past them in my big shiny car, like, ‘Fuck you.'”

“Roscoe is ambitious and he wants to achieve things and he wants to hit the high life,” confirms Douglas. “He’s going to go out and get it by whatever means necessary, and he does.”

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“So, tell me. Mrs. Thatcher, does she drink tea or coffee?” | CHANNEL 4

When Roscoe has a run-in with a Member of Parliament, Arthur Garrison (Stephen Fry), he sees his ticket to obtaining status and begins sleeping with him in secret. He grows closer to the MP over time, bailing on the bar job he’s had for several years now and diving headfirst into a private world of wealth and power that even his friends aren’t privy to.

“Roscoe knows that some of what he’s doing is maybe a little bit questionable and he’s not going to share it with the group,” says Douglas, acknowledging that Roscoe is fully aware he doesn’t belong in Garrison’s world. Still, Roscoe needed to let himself get burned before returning to reality—and the core friends who truly care for him.

Thus is the mystery of Roscoe: How can someone who brings such vibrance to every room he enters manage to keep an invisible guard between himself and his friends? And where does his aggressive independence come from? Douglas sees Roscoe’s bravado as his shield, his independence a side-effect of his parents’ intolerance. “To be pushed out of your home by the people who bore you is the greatest kind of rejection, so he’s quite selective,” says Douglas. “You would be selective about the people that you let into your life.”

Roscoe has several friends, ones that he genuinely cherishes, but few understand the extent to which his strained family relationships still weigh on him. The person who got to know Roscoe the most intimately was Gregory (David Carlyle), affectionately known as Gloria, who becomes one of the show’s many casualties of AIDS.

“He trusted Gloria, and he disappeared,” says Douglas, leaving Roscoe even more hurt and shut off to his pain. As it often goes with people who are suffering, it became easier to maintain his strong front than to vulnerably open himself up and risk more judgment or, worse, abandonment.

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“How’s mom? How’s things?” | CHANNEL 4

On the surface, Roscoe’s story never quite comes full circle, but Davies drops just enough breadcrumbs to suggest that, even if it takes time, Roscoe might one day have a relationship with his parents again.

First, there’s Roscoe’s subtle support of his mother from afar. “I think Roscoe still understands his duty as a son and he still wants to repair that,” Douglas says, describing why Roscoe would anonymously leave an envelope of cash at his mother’s door after learning through the grapevine that she was struggling. “It’s his mom, you know, and no one wants to lose that.”

Then, there’s the dramatic, cliff-hanging scene in the final episode when he runs into his father in the AIDS ward of a hospital and is asked for forgiveness. We never hear if Roscoe is willing to give his father a second chance, but according to Douglas, his dad’s apology is certainly a bridge toward mending the relationship—as long as one condition is met.

“Roscoe knew who he was from the beginning and [his parents] wouldn’t let him [be] that, so he’s not going to compromise for the sake of welcoming them back into his life,” says Douglas, explaining that while Roscoe would be open to the idea of reconciliation, he would rather have no contact with his parents than be forced to tone down any part of himself for them.

Its a sin cast laughing
“La.” | CHANNEL 4

Roscoe Babatunde is just one piece of Davies’ narrative—one that’s perhaps not given as much weight as other characters—but the themes of Roscoe’s journey lend themselves to the greater picture of It’s a Sin. Much like the 1987 Pet Shop Boys song of the same name, it’s a story of spirited youth just trying to live, despite being told at every turn that their pursuit of happiness is shameful. And along the way, it becomes the story of not only battling an oppressive moral high ground, but battling a deadly illness that only validates the shame instilled in them as children.

“It’s kind of a retrospective on [Davies’] experiences,” says Douglas, describing how It’s a Sin captures the happy moments of being a queer 20-something in the ’80s, in addition to the hard moments. “Back in the ’80s when all of these [seminal works about AIDS] were coming out, I don’t think there was time to sit in the joy.”

Now that time has passed and progress has been made, Davies was able to adopt a tone for It’s a Sin that might have been irreverent at the time. The show features fun pop anthems from the era, steamy sex scenes, and moments of pure ecstasy—whether on the dancefloor or in the company of good friends—that humanize the characters. It’s hard for anyone to watch It’s a Sin and not see at least an element of themselves reflected in Ritchie, or Colin, or Roscoe.

“I’m glad that we can enjoy that stuff because it needs to be seen. We need to see what these people lost,” says Douglas. “People lost youth and innocence and all the things that they should’ve been able to enjoy.”

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travel

These Mail-Order Diners Helped Define Roadside Eating. Now They’re Disappearing.

Published on Thrillist on June 30, 2020

“I’LL GET A NUMBER FOUR WITH A SIDE OF BARBECUE SAUCE AND A CHOCOLATE SHAKE.” Take any highway exit, pull into the nearest diner, say these magic words, and you’ll get some recognizable combination of sandwiched meat and fried potatoes. 

Consider it American dialect, a customary language taught to children from the front seat of a car on family road trips. In the Land of Opportunity, roadside dining is all but defined by simplicity and familiarity. And that familiarity, like all things Americana, is completely manufactured.

Before Golden Arches and Double-Doubles, America’s appetite for burgers and fries was whetted by diners. And while diners were birthed in New England and popularized in Jersey, the forgotten hero of our nation’s culinary backstory is Wichita, Kansas — a burger-loving town that helped every corner of the nation get a taste. If the iconic diner experience feels codified and eerily similar — like you’re walking into the same building every time you stop off for a greasy-spoon breakfast — well, you might not be too far off. And you can probably thank Wichita for that, too.

Suzie Q Cafe is housed in an authentic Valentine building. | Larry Sallee

By the late 1930s, Wichita’s White Castle had made a dent in Midwest culture. Founded in 1921, it was the earliest known assembly-line fast-food chain where the experience was the same at each location. That included the look: White Castle locations were manufactured as ready-made buildings that were dropped off at new branches. Still, their reach had limits.

Enter Arthur Valentine, a local entrepreneur who specialized in prefabricated lunchrooms. Rather than feeding into the fast-food craze, Valentine focused on designing affordable diner buildings — fittingly called “Valentine diners” — that could be shipped anywhere and turned into small businesses. World War II delayed his growth, but by 1947, he had vertically integrated and was ready to soar.

“It didn’t really take a lot of money to get a diner started.”

Valentine wasn’t the first person to market mail-order diners, but at the time all of the prominent manufacturers were based on the East Coast and crafted large structures to serve dense populations. Valentine went smaller and wider with models like the eight-stool Aristocrat, nine-stool Nifty-Nine, 10-stool Master, and window-service-only Burger Bar, all of which appealed to any-sized populations. 

Valentine’s business largely catered to rural startups in budding towns west of the Mississippi that didn’t need a fancy setup, and his business was devoted to helping others achieve their own American Dream. 

“He always wanted to be his own businessman, his own boss, and that was the selling point for these diners,” says Blair Tarr, museum curator at the Kansas Historical Society. 

The smaller models could be operated with only one or two employees, and Valentine would even extend credit to buyers to get them on their feet. “This was one of the things that made it popular during the Depression years and after World War II: that it didn’t really take a lot of money to get a diner started.”

The Broadway Diner is still a popular meeting place in Columbia, Missouri. | Flickr/Heath Cajandig

It helped that Valentine hit his stride as the Great American Road Trip was being born. The growing US highway system welcomed the Automobile Age as people hit the pavement to escape the Dust Bowl and explore new areas because, well, that’s a thing they could suddenly do. Motorists quickly learned that long-distance travel requires some stops, and along middle-of-nowhere routes there wasn’t much to choose from.

Small Valentine diner models were perfect candidates to fill the void, with diners popping up in the ’40s and ’50s along stretches of highway. It’s an idyllic scene — a barren desert road made colorful by a series of identical diners spaced along the route — that made Route 66 hot enough to sing about and build an entire movie franchise around.

Valentines emerged as road trip cornerstones, but travelers weren’t their only clientele and empty desert towns weren’t their only locales. “A small diner became a meeting place for the community,” Tarr explains, noting that some were the only restaurants in their towns. “You could usually count in the morning the locals coming in and, if nothing else, having coffee and maybe some small breakfast and chewing the fat with the other locals.” 

As with many of the era’s nostalgic touchstones, though, the diner found itself eclipsed. Interstates meant cars zipping past small towns without stopping. Booming fast-food chains became the go-to pit stop. And while Valentine introduced a dozen different diner models, they couldn’t keep up with the changing times. 

“They make a go of it for a while, but at that time, the idea of having a 12-seat diner becomes unworkable,” Tarr says. “They keep trying to make adjustments for a larger market, but by 1974, the business is essentially over.”

The Suzie Q Cafe seats a maximum of 10 customers at once. | Courtesy of Suzie Q Cafe

In the decades that followed, Valentine diners began to vanish. But they’re not completely gone.

Suzie Q Cafe in Mason City, Iowa, belongs to a diminishing club of authentic Valentines. It’s a Little Chef, one of the smallest and most recognizable models that Valentine manufactured. This particular diner arrived in Mason City in the late ’40s; a few generations and several owners later, it’s a community staple known for its retro design and juicy Spic-N-Span pork tenderloin.

Tahmyrah Lytle and her business partner bought and remodeled Suzie Q last year. They were only open for three weeks before COVID-19 restrictions forced them to temporarily close, but Lytle is unwilling to let her diner meet the same fate of so many other Valentines.

“Being the steward of this piece of history, this living piece of history, and knowing that this is an artifact of the Great Depression [is so special],” says Lytle. “It’s like the manifestation of a dream from oh so long ago and I think that’s so romantic. ‘Valentine’ is very befitting.”

That heart-shaped dream lives on in a smattering of tight-knit communities beyond Mason City. Finding an authentic Valentine requires some sleuthing after many were replicated, abandoned, repurposed, or lost completely, but a handful are going strong, from Sugar Shack Diner in Rudyard, Montana, to The Lucky Dog Diner in Venice, Florida, and Dave’s Diner in Gardiner, Maine.

Dot’s Diner, another Little Chef model, now rests at The Shady Dell, a vintage trailer park and retro vacation spot in Bisbee, Arizona. The Broadway Diner, a Double Deluxe model in Columbia, Missouri, is a reminder of the college town’s history and home of the famous “Stretch,” a messy plate of hash browns layered with eggs, cheese, chili, green peppers, and onions. In Enid, Oklahoma, Lenox Drive In satisfies locals with classic burgers and cherry limeades from the window of a Burger Bar building. The model of Cindy’s Diner in Fort Wayne, Indiana, hasn’t been verified — perhaps it’s one of Valentine’s custom-built structures — but regardless, they proudly “serve the whole world, 15 at a time.” And Stacy’s Restaurant and Brint’s Diner carry on the history in Valentine’s home state, posted up in Junction City and Wichita, respectively.

These torchbearers — along with the countless retrofuturistic New American restaurants that emulate their kitsch — are a testament to Valentine’s legacy, one as important to roadside Americana as horn-rimmed glasses on a salty waitress. Arthur Valentine created a universal venue that helped burgers, fries, and shakes become mandatory road trip fare nationwide; now, his surviving diners are tasty time capsules of America’s post-war boom. And when you see one, it’s best you stop.

After all, any restaurant can pull inspiration from Valentines, but there’s just nothing like the real thing.

Categories
entertainment

The Drag Stars of HBO’s ‘We’re Here’ Are Making Lasting Change in Small Towns

Published on Thrillist on June 11, 2020

By now we know not to underestimate HBO. The network ushered in the golden age of television dramas, marketed a medieval fantasy to mainstream audiences, gave Seinfeld comics a platform to build upon their legacy, and revolutionized the way TV talks about sex and relationships more than once. In April, ahead of its new streaming service debut, HBO quietly premiered We’re Here, a tearjerking reality show that’s taken real strides toward increasing queer visibility in rural communities nationwide.

We’re Here follows three drag superstars on their mission to nurture queer leaders throughout small-town America. There’s Bob the Drag Queen, a New York City icon and winner of Drag Race Season 8; Eureka O’Hara, the “Elephant Queen,” who nearly took the crown in Drag Race Season 10; and Shangela Laquifa Wadley, the three-time Drag Race contestant who landed a role in A Star Is Born. In each episode, the queens spend a week in a different conservative community, traveling to places like Farmington, New Mexico, and Ruston, Louisiana, where they adopt a few locals as their “drag children” and prepare them for a one-night-only drag show. 

At a glance, We’re Here is a queer-led makeover show a la Netflix’s Queer Eye — an established queen takes a shy townsperson and puts them in drag for the first time to help them find their confidence — but makeup, wigs, and learning to walk in heels are far from the point. The drag transformation is simply a means to an end, with the end being a newly empowered queer community in every town that they visit.

Shangela and Eureka spoke to Thrillist about the impact that We’re Here has already made in its first season, which wrapped up on Thursday, June 4. “Interestingly enough, We’re Here is not a drag makeover show; We’re Here is a real-life series that happens to include a transformation,” Shangela clarified. “Drag’s not just about the performance. It’s being able to say, ‘I love myself so much, I have so much pride in who I am and what I’m able to deliver in this world, I’m going to put on this look and I’m going to strut because I don’t have to be ashamed. I don’t have to be shy. I don’t have to be closed off. I can live my life out loud and proud.'”

Every participant in the six-part season brings a different perspective and goal to the drag show stage. Some wanted to perform in drag to show acceptance for their family members; some got in drag to explore their own identities; and some LGBTQ+ allies performed to help break down stigmas for other straight folks in the community. The complicated relationship between religion and sexuality is addressed, race-related struggles are put in the spotlight, toxic gender roles are challenged, and every speck on the rainbow gets airtime.

Shangela gives her new drag children, Brandon and Mikayla, a wedding do-over in Twin Falls, Idaho. | Christopher Smith/HBO

For example, in episode 3, Bob, Eureka, and Shangela went to Branson, Missouri, the “Live Entertainment Capital of the World” and home to many quietly queer performers because LGBTQ+ people don’t have adequate protection against discrimination in the state. They met three men each grappling with muddied views of masculinity and identity that their community had instilled in them. Charles, an openly gay dancer, found himself suppressing his sexuality because of the town’s intolerance; Chris, a straight man with a young daughter, fell into depression after bottling up his emotions like he was raised to believe he should; and Tanner, a young guy who previously came out of the closet, then withdrew his queer identity after turning to Christianity and feeling like the two lifestyles weren’t compatible.

Eureka believes there’s a moral code in today’s society that informs how people should look, feel, behave, and love at a young age. “There’s a lot of stereotypes, and at the same time there’s a lot of people who don’t fit that mold,” they said. “What’s so special about the show is that it’s giving voices to people who don’t normally get heard.” The queens aren’t just grooming drag children, they’re grooming community leaders who can continue breaking down gender stereotypes and providing queer safe spaces long after the HBO crew packs up. 

“It’s one thing going into these towns and then leaving,” Shangela said. “People see that with makeover shows — in and out, and then you hope that they feel better.” We know by now that upgrading someone’s wardrobe and giving them a fancy haircut doesn’t do much to make the world a better place; in some cases, it does more harm than good by sending a message that looking polished is the key to unlocking self-love. That’s not the case with We’re Here. The genuine impact the queens had on not only their drag children, but the town as a whole, is why HBO’s take on a “reality makeover show” feels bigger than its more narrow-sighted competitors — and why it’s already been nominated for a Critics’ Choice Real TV Award.

Eureka rehearses with Lynn, a double amputee and soon-to-be drag king, in Ruston, Louisiana. | Jake Giles Netter/HBO

“A lot of times small towns get a bad rap like, ‘Oh my god, you poor queer person living in a small town, I’m sure you can’t wait to grow up and move to the big city where you can be you,” said Shangela, who grew up in Paris, Texas, with a population of around 25,000. “But there are people who live in small towns who love living in their small town, and a lot of times, there just isn’t a space for queer people and queer allies to come out and be together and say ‘I support you.'”

Of course, this is a real, unscripted series, and not everyone in each town responded so openly. As the queens go around passing out flyers promoting the drag shows, they run into plenty of people who show no interest, and in Branson, a business owner called the cops to have the queens kicked off the property, forcing them to leave peacefully despite not breaking any laws. But none of those negative run-ins prevented the drag moms and their children from doing what they set out to do.

“In the first episode I remember telling Bob as she was setting up the stage area, I’m like, ‘Baby, you don’t have to leave all that standing room, this isn’t a regular drag show it’s not going to have tons of people standing and jumping and screaming,'” said Shangela. However, when showtime rolled around, there were so many people from Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, lined up to watch that they couldn’t get everyone inside the historic distillery-turned-gay club. That’s when it became clear that We’re Here was going to do some real good.

Shangela and Jose test out a wig in Ruston, Louisiana. | Jake Giles Netter/HBO

Even through a screen, viewers can see that the connections formed are genuine, a byproduct of mutual openness that doesn’t disappear when the cameras do. “I didn’t expect to be that vulnerable, you know, in doing this show, and it’s just been really beautiful,” Shangela said. “Those are all my children now, and I feel like I had a little part in seeing them grow to that place they were at, that level of happiness, the freedom.” 

For a number of reasons (e.g., COVID-19, Drag Race Season 12, the launch of HBO Max, nationwide protests), We’re Here aired all six episodes mostly under the radar, but the people who watched are already demanding more. “It’s not the kind of show that you can pick apart. It’s not about drama, it’s not about shade, it’s really about love and telling stories that people get emotional to and can relate to,” Eureka said. Luckily, HBO’s already confirmed that they’re here to stay — at least for another season.